Luxist

The Classicist: The Henley Royal Regatta

Jared Paul Stern — 2008-06-30T09:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Water, Sports, Men's Style, The Classicist

Earlier this month we reported on the Royal Ascot races, one of the highlights of the English social season. This week ushers in another classic British sporting event-cum-society pageant, the Henley Royal Regatta. The five-day Regatta, held on the River Thames by the town of Henley-on-Thames, takes place over the first weekend of every July and runs from Wednesday the 2nd through Sunday the 6th this year.

International crews compete in various races at the Regatta, which has been held every year since 1839 except during the two World Wars, the main event being the Grand Challenge Cup for Men's Eights. Prince Albert, Queen Victoria's consort, became the Regatta's first Royal Patron in 1851, a tradition carried on by the reigning monarch ever since, though unlike Royal Ascot they don't always deign to attend.

Even more so than at Ascot, Henley provides an opportunity for aristocrats from the sporting and social sets to dress in that distinctively British style which has inspired so many fashion designers over the decades. The commercialization of Henley, unlike Ascot, Wimbledon and cricket at Lord's, has been slower to take hold, and as Godfrey Smith writes in The English Season, it is something of "an Edwardian time warp."

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Results of the Sopranos Auction

Lisa Palladino — 2008-06-26T22:01:00 00:00

Filed under: Apparel, Auctions, Celebrity Shopping, Men's Style

Last month we reported that there was to be an auction of apparel from The Sopranos. The results from the June 25 event are in: Twenty-five outfits worn by James Gandolfini's alter ego raised $187,750 and benefited the Wounded Warrior Project, a nonprofit that aids wounded soldiers in Iraq and Afghanistan. Gandolfini attended part of the Christie's auction with a soldier from the project.

The highest bid was for a faux-bloodstained outfit that Gandolfini wore in a scene when Tony is shot by a demented Uncle Junior: the black and beige short-sleeve polo shirt, a tank top and black pants brought in $43,750. The next highest bid was $21,250 for a four-piece costume that included a blue, red and yellow striped robe and boxer shorts that the actor wore in numerous episodes. Other top-selling outfits included a tan cotton bathrobe with lavender trim and 'S' insignia on the breast pocket that was featured in the pilot when Tony fetched the morning paper and fed the ducks in his pool, which raised $13,750.

All of the outfits were authenticated by Gandolfini, and many had the original production tags attached. See a sampling of the auctioned items in the gallery. See the entire lot and prices realized here.

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New "Bespoke" Ruling: A Blow to Savile Row?

Jared Paul Stern — 2008-06-19T16:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style

There's quite a row on Savile Row over the UK Advertising Standards Authority's brand new ruling that suits which are not entirely handmade may now be sold as "bespoke." It has horrified some Savile Row stalwarts who've long fought to protect their trade from such encroachments; late last year tailor's guild the Savile Row Bespoke Association (SRBA) trademarked the term "Savile Row Bespoke" to prevent parvenus from taking unfair advantage. According to the SRBA's guidelines, to qualify as bespoke a suit must be crafted from a choice of at least 2,000 fabrics and its construction requires at least 50 hours of hand-stitching.

However, SRBA board member Anda Rowland, owner of storied 100-year-old Row house Anderson & Sheppard, tells Luxist she is taking the philosophical view. While lamenting the ruling's implied lack of respect for Britain's tailoring trade, to her way of thinking a fellow who would be content with a faux-Row suit merely made-to-measure was "never a true bespoke customer in the first place" she tells us, while any connoisseur "will ultimately be able to spot the difference between true bespoke tailoring and incorrectly labeled imitations." In the meantime, made-to-measure garments, no matter what they're sold as, can continue to serve their proper purpose: "providing a bridge from ready-to-wear to bespoke."

For those seeking sartorial enlightenment, Rowland notes the SRBA has launched a website, savilerowbespoke.com, to help them on their path to proper tailoring. In addition, when Anderson & Sheppard moved into its new premises at 32 Old Burlington Street, Rowland says, "we opened up our workrooms especially to confront the confusion that potential customers might have over the increasing number of terms being used to describe made-to-measure... Since moving, we have been welcoming more and more first time customers who have done research through word of mouth, reputable press and the Internet and therefore have a very good idea of why they have come to us." No mere ruling no matter how barmy will change that.

Pictured above is Savile Row maverick Ozwald Boateng. See the gallery for more.

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New Dress Code, Same Classic Style at Royal Ascot Races

Jared Paul Stern — 2008-06-19T12:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Apparel, Events, Sports, Men's Style

Since it was founded by Queen Anne in 1711, the annual Royal Ascot races have become the highlight of the English social season. Ostensibly a five-day sporting event, it's also evolved into something of an immense fashion show, marked by the arrival of the Royal Family in ceremonial horse-drawn carriages every day. It has become the style for ladies to sport increasingly outrageous hats, and lately the traditional rules about "formal day dress" in the coveted Royal Enclosure have been rather loosely interpreted, much to the Queen's dismay.

This year officials have cracked down, declaring that "Off the shoulder, halter neck, spaghetti straps and dresses with a strap of less than one inch and/or miniskirts are considered unsuitable," while "Midriffs must be covered and trouser suits must be full length and of matching material and color." Those not in compliance will be asked to leave the Royal Enclosure. Gentlemen have always been required to wear full morning dress with top hats. Lest all the pageantry detract from the business at hand, it's worth noting that prize money at this year's event, which runs through Saturday, has reached an unprecedented $7.8 million.

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John Lobb's Luxe New Shoes and Boots for Fall

Jared Paul Stern — 2008-06-18T08:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Shoes, Men's Style

The fall line from John Lobb, bootmaker to British royalty since the 1860s and fashioner of what is arguably the world's finest men's footwear, isn't due to arrive in stores for another couple of weeks - but we have an exclusive preview for you. Lobb, founded in 1849, received its first Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales in 1863. Aside from sovereigns and heads of state, Lobbs have long been the favored footwear of fops including Cole Porter, Cecil Beaton, Hugh Grant and Daniel Day-Lewis.

Handmade from the finest quality full grain leathers, Lobb shoes "combine heritage, tradition and modernity" with distinction and elegance. The new ready-to-wear line features classic oxfords and monk straps, jodphur boots, riding boots (like the Hellesdon model in tan brown shire calf pictured here) and suede chukka boots, some available in a striking crimson red. Of course if money is no object, the company (which is now owned by Hermes) also offers bespoke services. See the gallery for more.

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Iconic French Tennis Shoe Arrives in U.S.A.

Jared Paul Stern — 2008-06-13T09:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Shoes, Men's Style

La Tennis Bensimon, the iconic French sneaker that was a favorite of John F. Kennedy and super-cool musician Serge Gainsbourg, is finally arriving in the U.S. for fall. The classic tennis shoes, rendered in cotton canvas, leather and suede, have long been a favorite of stylish fellows who tracked them down in Europe and Japan. Designer Serge Bensimon, whose grandfather began the business by importing American Army surplus clothing following World War II, says that "For me, creation is a sensitive and eclectic dialogue between art, literature and travel." The men's collection, which will now be available at Bloomingdale's, is "classic and simple yet luxurious, reflecting the essence of Parisian style." Canvas Sneakers have been given the Men.Style.com seal of approval for summer. We're partial to the navy canvas version pictured above. See the gallery for more examples.

[via Kempt]

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Dolce & Gabbana Tailors Italian Nat'l Soccer Team

Jared Paul Stern — 2008-06-09T18:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Apparel, Sports, Men's Style

To celebrate the 2008 European Cup soccer tournament, dashing designers Dolce & Gabbana have created a stylish new wardrobe for the Italian National Football Team ("Nazionale"). Italy debuted today in the fiercely-competitive 16-nation tournament at the Stade de Suisse in Berne, Switzerland. Dolce & Gabbana custom-tailored natty narrow-lapeled one-button dark blue suits with the Nazionale badge embroidered on the breast pocket, classic white shirts and solid narrow blue silk ties for the team. Filling out their off-pitch wardrobe are blue single-breasted peak-lapel blazers, matching four-button vests, blue cotton and wool hooded track suit tops, blue cotton track suit bottoms with satin belts and sides, and black nylon padded parkas with multiple pockets and detachable hoods. The collaboration is the latest in a line of recent designer makeovers for famed European football (soccer) teams, including Giorgio Armani for the Chelsea F.C. and Paul Smith for Manchester United. See the gallery for more.

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The Classicist: 10 Yrs. of Paul Smith at Westbourne House

Jared Paul Stern — 2008-06-09T09:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style, The Classicist

Brilliant British designer Sir Paul Smith recently celebrated an important milestone in his colorful career: the 10th anniversary of his incredible flagship store in London's Notting Hill, Westbourne House. The perfect realization of a long term dream of Sir Paul's, the shop is designed to feel like someone's tastefully, quirkily lavish London home, and features a unique range of men's and women's clothes and accessories, housewares and knickknacks alongside a cllection of jewellery, books, art and antiques.

The architecturally-significant establishment is also the center of his exclusive bespoke tailoring operation. Smith says he still gets a thrill every time he walks in the door. To commemorate the anniversary, Smith and friends like shoe maestro Manolo Blahnik have created of limited edition products, available exclusively at Westbourne House, including watercolors, hand-painted plates, jewelry and a retro radio.

Smith, whose known for his signature multicolored stripes, opened his first clothing shop in 1970 and showed his first menswear collection under the Paul Smith label in 1976. Today Westbourne House is one of 14 Paul Smith shops in England; there are also outlets in Paris, Milan, New York, Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan, the Philippines, Korea, Kuwait, the United Arab Emirates and others, as well as dozens in Japan, where Sir Paul is something of a cult figure. Today he has 12 different collections including Paul Smith, Paul Smith Women, Paul Smith Jeans, Paul Smith London, Paul Smith Bespoke, Paul Smith Shoes, Paul Smith Fragrance and Paul Smith Spectacles. The company's annual revenue as of 2006 exceeded $600 million.

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Styledrops -- Italian Fashion, With Passion

Lisa Palladino — 2008-06-05T12:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Apparel, Handbags, Shoes, Children, Men's Style

While researching something for Luxist, I came across Styledrops, a fashion site for men, women and children that sells upscale Italian designer goods. For women, select from shoes, handbags, clothing and accessories. Same for men, minus the handbags. Kids get shoes and clothing. The site boasts "the best price you have ever seen on the Internet!"

A sampling of brands: Prada, Gucci, Fendi, Tod's, Hogan, Dior, Fratelli Rossetti, Ferragamo, Cesare Paciotti, Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Frankie Morello. Check here for the whole list for women, men and kids. Choose by type of item, designer or price.

I haven't purchased from the site so I can't vouch for service or quality, but the site itself is easy to navigate and has some very high-end items.

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Great China Wall Hoodies

Star Sutherland — 2008-06-03T14:05:00 00:00

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style

If you've ever felt the urge to drop over a grand on a hoodie, look no further than Great China Wall. Simply the most luxurious casual gear that money can buy, Great China Wall designs feature crystal detailing and limited edition tattoo type airbrushing reminiscent of Ed Hardy graphics. Made of that trendy delicate soft cotton, you definitly won't want to put them in the washer/dryer...this brand is far too high maintenance for me and truthfully I'd be a little wary of any man sporting it! Hoodies range from $900-$1400, check out the collection online and decide for yourself if it's worth the loot or just another brand that's trying way too hard.

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Hermes to Open First Ever Men's-Only Store in NYC

Jared Paul Stern — 2008-05-31T09:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style

French luxury powerhouse Hermes will open a men's-only store, the first of its kind in the world, across from its Madison Avenue flagship in NYC this fall. The 6,000-sq.-ft. space, designed by Rena Dumas of the architectural firm RDAI in Paris, will carry the brand's entire range of men's leather goods, watches, clothing, sportswear and accessories, and will have a full floor devoted to custom and made-to-measure merchandise, DNR reports. As my colleague Deidre Woollard related earlier this month, Hermes recently announced that first-quarter sales increased 13.4 percent to 415.1 million euros, or approx. $621.7 million. Sales in the Americas were up 23 percent. Men's merchandise accounts for 45 percent of the luxury brand's total sales, DNR notes. Last June, the company opened a 5,000-square-foot shop in New York's financial district with an emphasis on menswear, catering to the Wall St. crowd.

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The Classicist: A Bastion of British Style in the Burlington Arcade

Jared Paul Stern — 2008-05-27T09:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Shoes, Men's Style, The Classicist

Photo by Andrew Dunn

Classic English shoe brand Church's was founded in 1873, but its roots date back to the late 1600s when a Northampton cobbler named Church first set up shop. The traditional shoemaker is known for its elegant footwear, which has been the choice of well-dressed British gentlemen for over 130 years. In 1999 Church's was acquired by the Prada group, and while some traditionalists bemoaned the end of an era, little of the company's core values have changed. Its high-end models, which have names like the Consul, the Diplomat, the Chetwynd and the Gunthorpe, are still handmade in Northampton and cost in the neighborhood of £300 pounds, or about $600.

Prada has certainly set about modernizing the brand however, which is known for durable style. The company recently redesigned Church's historic shop in London's Burlington Arcade, Britain's first shopping arcade, which was built by Lord George Cavendish in 1819 and houses some of the world's finest boutiques. The revamped shop incorporates some modern design elements while retaining the important historical fixtures. In addition to shoes, the store also stocks neckties, gentlemen's accessories and leathergoods. Part of Prada's plan to boost the brand's presence internationally, new Church's shops were also recently opened in Venice and Bologna.

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SeaVees Shoes

Deidre Woollard — 2008-05-25T16:01:00 00:00

Filed under: Shoes, Men's Style

Summer is fast upon us and you are going to need a new pair of casual shoes. For men the options keep getting more and more interesting. I love the look of the SeaVees, a shoe that takes the comfort of a sneaker and adds a bit of classic flair. The sneakers were inspired by California cool in the 1960s and each style is named after a month and year during that era. The model shown is the the 01/68 shoe. It has a perforated suede leather upper with pull-up leather accents and a contrasting toe bumper.The lining is calfskin. They sell for $165. Here's hoping they put out a line for women soon.

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Sporting Art Auction Includes a Sartorial Tutorial

Jared Paul Stern — 2008-05-22T11:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Auctions, Art, Men's Style

With an estimate of only $137,000 - $196,000, Lowes Cato Dickinson's The Birdcage at Newmarket, painted c. 1885, is far from the most expensive work on offer at Christie's London's Sporting Art sale this Friday. From a sartorial historian's point of view, however, it might be the most precious. The monumental panorama, which measures 5 ft. x 9.5 ft., portrays the Rowley Mile Course at Newmarket following the 2,000 Guineas Stakes in 1885. The winner, Mr. Broderick Cloete's Paradox, with jockey Fred Archer up, can be seen in the center of the picture (detail above), while in the throng the keen observer can spot such luminaries of the turf as the Prince of Wales and the Earl of Rosebery, attired in the height of late-1800's equestrian chic. Ralph Lauren could base an entire collection on this one work of art -- and he probably has.

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Brad Pitt Back in Tom Ford at Cannes

Jared Paul Stern — 2008-05-22T09:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Apparel, Events, Men's Style

Brad Pitt obviously knows when he's on to a good thing. We're not referring to Angelina Jolie in fact, but rather Tom Ford. Wearing head to toe Tom made Pitt one of the most stylish stars at last year's Cannes Film Festival - actually, make that any year - so it's no surprise he's back this season sporting more of the designer's dapper duds.

Last week Pitt wore a classic made-to-measure Ford black two piece notch lapel wool suit with a white shirt and solid black silk jacquard tie to the Kung Fu Panda premiere. And on Tuesday he upped the ante with an ultra-elegant made-to-measure black mohair blend single breasted peak lapel tuxedo, black silk moiré bowtie, and 18K white gold and diamond shirt studs and cufflinks from Ford's menswear collection to the Changeling premiere. That's what we call stealing the show.

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Limoland...New Luxury Menswear!

Star Sutherland — 2008-05-21T08:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Apparel, Preferred, Men's Style

Stylish men all over the globe are obsessed with hot new fashion line, Limoland! Limoland is for wealthy men who consider themselves eternal adolescents, who don't take themselves too seriously and who like to have fun with their wardrobes, it's couture with a sense of humor. Fun colorful street wear made out of the most expensive materials available, Japanese cottons and the finest cashmere, completed with exquisite hand detailing. So far Limoland is available exclusively at Harvey Nichols, prices are comparable to other luxury men's line, the most popular piece is the hot pink V neck sweater which retails for around $800. Check out the Limoland website, or browse the collection at Harvey Nichols London!

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The Classicist: The Private Luxury of Loro Piana

Jared Paul Stern — 2008-05-19T09:03:00 00:00

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style, The Classicist

If I had the means I could easily wear nothing but Loro Piana for the rest of my life. They make the most comfortable, classic, stylish and subtly luxurious clothes I've ever had the pleasure of putting on. World-famous for their cashmere, the 200-year-old Italian company, which began as a textile merchant, has also branched out into other areas (including accessories and women's clothing) in more recent years with equal success.

Loro Piana's motto has it that true luxury is "knowing, not showing," i.e. dressing for yourself, not to impress others. It's "an inner satisfaction that comes from an aesthetic, intellectual, tactile pleasure, stemming from tradition, research and genuine quality." What could be better than that?

Their latest innovation is called Baby Cashmere(R). To make this fabric the company first had to spend several years convincing Mongolian and Chinese breeders to comb the fine underfleece of the Hyrcus goat kid when it is 3-12 months old. Each combing yields no more than 30 grams of the rare, precious and incredibly soft fibre. Baby Cashmere crops up in Loro Piana's luxe Fall/Winter 2008 collection, which is about to hit stores; as usual we want it all.

We love the knitted stretch cashmere Davenport jacket pictured here, which like a lot of their designs calls to mind a cross between Cary Grant and Steve McQueen. And also like many of their best designs it captures that ineffable quality of effortless elegance the Italians call sprezzatura. This is the kind of thing you wear for a drive to your villa on Lake Como in your Maserati Gran Turismo. Even better, merely putting on this jacket for a trip to the liquor store can make you feel like you're driving to your villa in a Maserati, which is the real test of its worth (The jacket retails for $3,995).

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Porsche Design Fragrance for Men Debuts This Fall

Lisa Palladino — 2008-05-18T16:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Cosmetics and Fragrance, Men's Style

The first scent from Porsche Design Group will debut this fall. The men's scent -- "The Essence by Porsche Design" -- was developed jointly by the Porsche SE subsidiary producing high-end accessories and Groupe Clarins' Parfums Azzaro. As reported in Women's Wear Daily, "It is a name everyone knows; next to 'Porsche' is the word 'design,' which is something modern and in the l'air du temps," said Gérard Delcour, president of Parfums Azzaro and Porsche Design Fragrances.

OK ... but what does it smell like? One molecule -- Artical, from International Flavors & Fragrances -- was the starting point for the scent's "fresh aromatic woody juice." Azzaro executives envisioned an urban, cultured, intelligent, sporty, sensual man in the 25-50 age range as the user (that means you, Luxist reader). In addition to Artical, other top notes are juniper and blueberry. Among heart notes are Russian coriander, black pepper and Siberian pine, and in the base are notes of fir balsam, patchouli and incense. (I'm sure that clears things up for you.)

Around early October, the scent will be introduced in selective distribution, plus Porsche Design sales points and travel-retail locations in Europe, the Middle East and North America. In the United States, the scent will be launched in Bloomingdale's during the first week of October, then in Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom during the first week of November. The second phase, starting in early 2009, will include Latin America, Asia and Africa.

The Porsche Design U.S. collection will include a 1.7-oz. eau de toilette spray for $54, a 2.7-oz. eau de toilette spray for $70, a 6.7-oz. hair and body shampoo for $28, and a 2.5-oz. stick deodorant for $20. A 2.7-oz. "luxury" eau de toilette spray (in black glass, as compared to the blue glass in the rest of the collection) for $80 is scheduled to come out in the U.S. in November. Just in time for the winter holiday gift-giving season, of course!

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The Most Stylish Moments in the History of Cannes

Jared Paul Stern — 2008-05-14T18:02:00 00:00

Filed under: Apparel, Events, Men's Style

The Cannes Film Festival, which began today in the South of France, has always been more focused on artistic merit than the blockbusters of the Academy Awards; that makes for a much more interesting mise-en-scène in our view. The cool crowd has always gravitated to the Riviera for this annual cinematic happening, not to mention the chance to compete for those little gold palm fronds. Along with the Met Costume Institute Gala it's easily one of the year's most stylish events.

As Cannes enters its seventh decade, this seems like the perfect time for a slideshow of some of the most classic style moments in its vivid history, including this rouge carpet scene from 1998. Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas was nominated for a Palme d'Or that year and its star Johnny Depp sported a midnight blue shawl-collared dinner jacket at the premiere. Meanwhile his co-star Benicio Del Toro (right) stuck to a classic tux, while Depp's date Kate Moss looked kind of like she'd been attacked by an angry emu -- but in a hot way. Click below for the full parade of stylish stars.

Official Selections [Men.Style]

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The Classicist: Panerai Past & Present

Jared Paul Stern — 2008-05-13T09:07:00 00:00

Filed under: Timepieces, Books, Men's Style, The Classicist

Photo by Éric Sauvage and Nils Herrmann

Officine Panerai, founded in Florence in 1860, makes some of the most coveted wristwatches in the world. They only produce a limited number of timepieces every year, and there's usually a long waiting list for new models costing several thousands of dollars. The company is credited with perfecting the world's first underwater watches in the thirties; many have imitated its oversized style and the numerous devoted Panerai collectors around the globe are known as "Paneristi." Since 1996 the company has also produced a line of watches for Ferrari and serves as the marque's official timekeeper. An impressive new slipcased volume, called simply Panerai, about to be published by Flammarion, details the fascinating history of these beautiful watches.

Early on the company became the official supplier to the Marina Militare (the Royal Italian Navy), initially providing optical and mechanical instruments. In 1910 they began experimenting with luminous materials to make the instrument dials visible in the dark. In 1936 the Marina Militare asked Panerai to develop a wristwatch suitable for use by commandos under extreme conditions. Thus was born the oversized, water-resistant, luminous dial Radiomir, production of which began in 1938, cementing a place for Panerai in the pantheon of the world's great watchmakers.

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